Author Topic: Mazda 6 2007 ts2 2.0TDI hatchback power loss when warm  (Read 217 times)

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Offline Vaust

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Mazda 6 2007 ts2 2.0TDI hatchback power loss when warm
« on: January 06, 2020, 08:36:32 am »
Hello.

It had happened a while ago now and my car been stuck at the driveway ever since.

In August I had MOT done and asked to replace rotors and brake pads. Upon collection, the mechanic said that one of the front calipers sticks in and would need to be replaced soon. I never had any problem with that before so it was a surprise.. I didnt have time to talk that much as i was in a hurry to the airport. On my way back home I really felt the lack of power and the car would run heavily and stop almost instantly. Upon arrival i felt burnt material and right hand side on the front was piping hot.
I got back home from holiday and decided to check on the case. Took another test drive, still same. Done basic check up and the brake fluid reservoir appeared to be over-flown. I drained the excess, spent some time on pressing the brakes, took another drive, on the following day was all fine. I was happy and decided to never visit that scammer anymore... But back to the case.

Probably a few days to a week later while i was heading to work i noticed that the engine temperature indicator rose up almost to the top, i stopped the car on the close by parking and it appeared that all of my cooling liquid disappeared (as a still young driver i didn't connect the dots of the fact that my AC wouldn't pick up the temperature).
I refilled the radiator, reservoir, the heating worked i was happy.
Next day on my way back from work i noticed again, lack of power, but this time when the engine was warm and a new symptom picked up - erratic idle.

I tried to check on the erratic idle with my cousin, so we checked the air intake, air filters. Even when disconnected, nothing changed. After a while, a cloud of thick smoke that smelled of the oil appeared.

I started doing the research online on what may have happened. Some say that its a blown gasket and its quite expensive to fix, although there is a solution that is said to fix the holes in the seals just by pouring it into the radiator and running it for a while. If that was the case that oil got into the sparkglows, I wanted to drain all the oil from the chambers before doing so however, another problem appeared... I have no idea how to get in there.

Many of the youtube videos about mazdas get the petrol version of the engine which is not helpful in my case, as they have screws to take out the spark plugs. My connectors/coils wont even move.
I took a couple of pictures of how it looks like and im hoping maybe you can bring me a little of the light so i can leave that dark tunnel and maybe you could instruct me on how to do such operation on the engine? if these are not sufficient, i can provide you with more and more detailed ones.

Thank you in advance :)


Offline apav

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Re: Mazda 6 2007 ts2 2.0TDI hatchback power loss when warm
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2020, 02:31:26 pm »
Your brake fluid cap is not right.

The callipers get rusty over time and then they brake all the time. With the new pads, there was very little play in the system and the continuous braking is move obvious. As you run down the pads, you get away with a partially sticking calliper if it is not stack on full pressure.

The AC should not be connected to the cooling system. Check your oil and the coolant for mixing. If your coolant is now clean and new, do the same for the oil.

The quick fix you refer to is going to be mixed with the coolant. You add it in the radiator and it will circulate covering up any holes. It may work but this is not always the case. You basically have a srap car now, so you have nothing to lose.

https://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2015/04/what-does-the-smoke-from-my-exhaust-mean-.html

You can ask how much a repair could be, but it is more likely to cost you more than buying another car in a working condition.

Offline Vaust

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Re: Mazda 6 2007 ts2 2.0TDI hatchback power loss when warm
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2020, 10:54:35 am »
@apav
Thank you for your quick answer
What do you mean by the brake fluid cap is not right?

As I said, I had no issues with the calipers on the front before visit at the garage and the guy overfilled the brake fluid reservoir with the solution. I fixed the issue by draining the fluid a little under the "MAX" line.


How its not connected? It is all dependant on the engine heat and the cooling system spreading the heat across as stated above in the diagram.
I've checked the oil and the radiator caps. They are all clean. No signs of oil in there.

I do realise that there is a 50% chance of the fix solution to cover up the holes and it all depends on how big the issue is. I had purchased it a few weeks ago and I got stuck with how to clean up the excess of oil in the chambers, so I can make sure it works correctly.

Thus why I wrote all about it here, as I couldnt find any help elsewhere.

So, please if you know how to get into the sparkglow wells, that would be most appreciated

Offline apav

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Re: Mazda 6 2007 ts2 2.0TDI hatchback power loss when warm
« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2020, 01:28:15 pm »
https://www.google.com/search?q=mazda+6+brake+fluid+cap&client=firefox-b-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwif-IL2xvHmAhWCUBUIHaODCLYQ_AUoAnoECAwQBA&biw=1366&bih=654

The brake fluid cap is too tall. Check the photos to see how the normal one looks like.

https://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-parts/brake-calipers.htm

The brake callipers have a piston that pushes the pads. The piston gradually gets further away to push the pads because these wear out. In order to fit in new pads, you have to push the piston back. This part of the piston is getting rusty. So it stops moving in and out and you end up with the car braking all the time like it happened with you.

In addition to that, when you fit new pads and you push the piston back, the brake fluid is pushed back as well. This is shown as increased level in the bottle.

What the garages usually do, is to clean the calliper and remove the excess brake fluid. If the calliper is on its last legs, it will stick. Your garage may did not remove the excess brake fluid. You have now burned a good part of the pad and the piston allows going through without braking all the time.

The air conditioning system is not related to the engine cooling system. They are similar but they are not connected. There is a different radiator and fan for the cooling system and a different one for the air conditioning. When your head gasket fails and the car overheats, you turn on the heater on full power to reduce the engine temperature. The air conditioning will not do anything about that.

What do you mean about oil in the chambers? If the oil and the coolant have been mixed, just replace the oil and the coolant. Replace the thermostat as well. See how the oil and the coolant are mixing and what happens with the temperatures. If the car does not work, you can add the witchcraft thing in the coolant.

https://barsleaks.com/gaskets/fixing-blown-leaking-head-gasket-one-affordable-easy-step/

It says that if the car overheats in 15 minutes, no magic fluid will fix it and you have to do a mechanical repair. So try to replace the engine oil, the coolant and the thermostat and run the car. If it overheats quickly, then you may not be successful with the fluid. The fluid can do more damage if you decide to fix the car properly. So you have to make a decision.

I am not sure why you want to remove the glow plugs. You will not pour the witchcraft fluid in there. The engine should not be flooded with oil. If the oil and the coolant are mixing, there is not a lot you can do. You have to drain and refill the engine oil and the coolant, replace the oil filter and the thermostat and find out how it progresses. Follow the instructions from these DIY fixing solutions and hope for the best.

Offline mareng73

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Re: Mazda 6 2007 ts2 2.0TDI hatchback power loss when warm
« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2020, 02:54:47 pm »
It sounds like you overheated the engine and blew the head gasket. This will result in oil in the cooling  water or water in the oil. You can sometimes tell if the cooling water in the header tank is pulsing?  Take it to a garage and ask them to do a pressure test on the system. They would normaly remove the radiator cap, pump the system up and see if it retained the pressure and if the pressure gauge needle was steady with the engine running. If the head gasket has blown you need the head off and a new one fitted. While its off it may pay to have a new timing belt fitted and thermostat. Have them check the head for warping due to the heat. Being a diesel I would also decarbonise the inlet manifold and valves. The valves in the head can be cleaned by the garage soaking the head in soapy water over night. The valves don't need dismantling. Have the fan belt replaced as well. Unless you know whats been done to the car in the past its worth doing these jobs.
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