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Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / Re: Trouble shifting into certain gears
« Last Post by apav on January 20, 2020, 04:25:27 pm »
I think you should press them for warranty repair. They could replace the outside mechanism or anything else and if it does not work out, you could go deeper.

If they test drive the car with you in, you will find out that they drive the car in a very different way to your style. So while it is an on/off issue, they may still spot it. Just try to discuss with them about trust, that if they find a problem, they will not try to cover it.

Removing the plastics around the gear lever is easy. You just pull them. I have a second generation car and I needed to do that to reach the passenger bag light which is in front of the gear lever. There was a youtube video of somebody fitting a new stereo. So he started by these lower plastics. They just come off with no tools. You just need to see how it is done or go very carefully and sense where each clip is.

Replacing the cables or more stuff, will mean more plastics to be removed but they will do it if needed.
Mazda 6 / Re: CONTRAST BETWEEN 2007 AND 2012 MAZDA 6 2.0 TS
« Last Post by apav on January 20, 2020, 04:16:13 pm »
I think from a value for money point of view, even repairs can be the sensible way forward. All second generation cars are now 8+ years old. This means that a lot of the previous owners were thinking as you say, repairs vs new to me car. So all these cars will have one or another problem to tackle. Unless you find somebody who kept the car over the long term and just bought a newer one. But still it will be another used car and sooner or later will need some kind of repairs.

You have 9 years of ownership which means 9 years by 365 days a year, 3285 days of ownership. There is no way you will ever pay that much for repairs. Even £500 for a clutch or £500 for an exhaust will cover you for many more years.

I think we are in a transition period when a lot of councils will force new regulations to limit old car use. So going from a 2007 to a 2012 car, can still leave you with a car with limited use.

In that sense, you may be better off maintaining the old car and then using the remaining funds to buy a much newer one when times comes.
Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / Re: Trouble shifting into certain gears
« Last Post by pandabat on January 18, 2020, 06:34:46 pm »
Thanks for the reply. The car is under warranty until July 2020 but there's a chance that, whatever the issue is, it's not covered by the warranty. As for them test driving it, due to the intermittent nature of the issue, there's a very good chance that nothing out of the ordinary would occur during such a drive. It's a pain in that respect!

I have mentioned external linkages in passing to them before and I don't yet believe that those have been checked but I have no idea how accessible those elements are (I'm just piecing together potential causes through the power of Google - my mechanical knowledge would fit on the back of something very small). I can ask more about those next week. The car is not due to go in for the deep dive until start of February. Maybe they're intending to start with those at that stage but it's worth asking about them again.

Thanks for the advice!
Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / Re: P2262 Turbo boost pressure not detected.
« Last Post by Mazda GJ on January 18, 2020, 03:35:34 pm »
Write up attached now with couple photos.
Mazda 6 / Re: CONTRAST BETWEEN 2007 AND 2012 MAZDA 6 2.0 TS
« Last Post by Treblegold on January 18, 2020, 12:58:28 pm »
Many thanks for this helpful reply. I think you’ve put into words better than I could  some of what I was feeling about the second generation car – less agile and less eager to perform – and the extra weight is a good point that I hadn’t considered. It looks from what you say that the car I test drove was pretty typical of the second generation. I think the way forward is, as you suggest, to try another test drive and see whether my impressions are unchanged.
I don’t absolutely have to change cars right now – I’ve got no reason to think that the clutch or exhaust is in imminent danger of failing. My thinking was that, at that kind of mileage, things were likely to start going wrong and there would be a point at which repairs might not be economic. But we might not be at that point yet.

Thanks again for your help.
Vehicle Electrics / Alternator removal - 2.2d skyactive
« Last Post by miniminsh on January 18, 2020, 12:37:39 pm »
Morning all,
does anyone have the steps / procedure to remove the alternator. or know if there is a way to  remove the clutch pulley without removing the alternator?
2.2 skyactiv-D with I-ELOOP

2nd Generation (2007 - present) / Re: Service intervals for 2.2TD (180hp)
« Last Post by apav on January 18, 2020, 10:37:04 am »
Oh yes I forgot about the keyless witchcraft. The way to solve that was usually by replacing parts at the dealer but he may had found a way forward with coding the keys. But it is a risk as you say which will cost money to put it right.

All prices have gone up and £1,700 may sound OK, but putting this in context with other cars, you get a better feeling of what you should do. I would worry more about the timing chain than anything else because if you pay £1,700 and then the chain goes, you will need to fix it to make this money go a bit further, and this is where this may never end.
Mazda 6 / Re: CONTRAST BETWEEN 2007 AND 2012 MAZDA 6 2.0 TS
« Last Post by apav on January 18, 2020, 10:31:01 am »
Do your clutch and exhaust need replacement or do you just want a new car?

Another used car will not have a new clutch and exhaust. So even if you need to replace your parts, you still know the rest of the car. So you may end up being better with the devil you already know.

I had test driven both generations when I was buying mine. All the first generation cars were petrol only though.

The second generation car is an evolution of the first generation and so it is more refined naturally. But there is also difference in weight and so performance. If your reason for changing the car is performance, you will be disappointed as you discovered.

In general, the first generation car feels much smaller and so more agile and eager to perform. But the second generation car is more mature and that will pay off on the longer distances. So if you drive short distances you may enjoy the first generation car more as it is more alive but if you drive longer distances, you will appreciate more the maturity of the second generation car.

If your car has no problems or if you are between another used car vs maintaining your car, I would stay with the same car. Your first impressions are not positive and you could test drive a second car to find out if that particular had any problems. I did the same when I was buying mine and after driving 2-3 of the first generation cars, I realised that all of them had the same characteristics no matter what their condition was. You may find out the same with some more test drives. At the end of the day, it is a used car and you should buy based on its condition.
2nd Generation (2007 - present) / Re: Service intervals for 2.2TD (180hp)
« Last Post by KevH20 on January 18, 2020, 07:34:12 am »
That's excellent. Thanks very much for the detailed reply. The car I was considering has had the issue with not starting under keyless go. He was pretty honest but said the key has just been recoded and if it happens again, he's been advised to replace the steering lock. When I've looked into that, that's £700 at a dealer and others have had further problems after it had been replaced. Although the car is only advertised at £1700, giving about £1300 leeway for repairs compared to other cars for sale, I'm not sure I fancy the risk.

That was really helpful though, thanks.
Mazda 6 / CONTRAST BETWEEN 2007 AND 2012 MAZDA 6 2.0 TS
« Last Post by Treblegold on January 17, 2020, 02:54:03 pm »
I have a 2007 Mazda 6 2.0 TS, which I’ve had since 2011. I love the car, and find it fantastic to drive – but with almost 122,000 miles on the clock (and still on its original clutch and exhaust), it may be time to look for a replacement. Since I want to stick with the combination of a six-speed gearbox and 16” wheels, the 2.0 TS seems to be the only option, and there don’t seem to be many of them for sale.

I have just had a test drive in a 2012 model with about 50,000 miles on the clock, but I was really disappointed with it: it was a nice-looking car, but nothing like as good to drive as my current car. It’s a bit difficult to describe what I mean, as I suppose driving always has a subjective element, but I found it a lot less involving than my car (perhaps because the engine was quieter) and at the same time it seemed less powerful. More objectively, perhaps, while my car will pull strongly in sixth gear from well under 40 mph, this one struggled under 40 even in fifth (but I didn’t detect any clutch problem).

I’m not buying the car, but, if they’re all like that, I may have to think again about another Mazda 6 – so what I’m really asking for is a view from anyone with experience of both generations about the differences between them.  Was my impression typical? I remember thinking “this is a terrific car” as soon as I started the test drive in my current car, and it was a surprise to be so disappointed with the newer model. Any help gratefully received.
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