Recent Posts

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Mazda 6 / Re: Vibration through the pedals? Accelerator pedal mainly on 2015
« Last Post by montecarlos on August 08, 2020, 03:27:35 pm »
Actuary seems to be more through the clutch than anything else now I've felt it more.

Could that still be the same thing? May get the balance checked out
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General Discussion / Drivers door check bar.
« Last Post by tony blue on August 04, 2020, 06:02:24 pm »
Hi, the drivers door check bar is making a popping sound opening and closing, it appears the pin is worn where the check strap attaches to the body, have ordered a strap off eBay, does anyone know how to remove door card without damaging it?
Thanks
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Mazda 6 / Re: Vibration through the pedals? Accelerator pedal mainly on 2015
« Last Post by Willpower on August 03, 2020, 06:11:20 pm »
Have you checked your wheel balancing lately ?   Worn tires or the accidental kerb bump can cause wheel wobble and subsequent vibrations as you describe. 
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Mazda 6 / Vibration through the pedals? Accelerator pedal mainly on 2015
« Last Post by montecarlos on August 03, 2020, 02:43:10 pm »
I bought my 2.2d 2015 and just sort of assumed it was normal.

Thinking about it now, I would think it was normal on a car from 1963, but any other car I have driven the pedals don't vibrate like they do on my 6.

Its not a huge problem mind you, but that plus the rattling noises etc make me feel like the car isn't well made at all.

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Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / Re: EGR valve issue
« Last Post by v4p-83 on July 29, 2020, 06:32:52 pm »
Interesting I think my car could be having a similar issue to yours but I had not considered the egr valve more the sensors such as map an maf

Cleaning would be a good way to start as it wont cost £500. 
See the guide here
https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/eu_eng/mazda6/20120903161818/html/id0116e1801000.html

On the 2.2 disel the egr valve is dificult to remove and clean as its water cooled and ideally you have to disconenct and drain some collant in order to remove from the car.

Hopefully someone who has an knlowledge of a good working egr valve can chime in here.
I noticed on mine that the egr seemed very clean but I couldnt move the valve freely with my fingers so wondered if that could be an issue.  Older/differnt engine cars you can generally move the valve to see if it sticks open or closed . 
Can any one share a pic or video of how the egr valves operate on these engines?
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Troubleshooting / Re: P0472 - exhaust pressure sensor a circuit low
« Last Post by Sebforce1 on July 24, 2020, 03:22:24 pm »
Thanks for the reply. I managed to get to the bottom of the issue on my car, luckily it had nothing to do with the brakes for me it was just a faulty/blocked exhaust pressure sensor. I wrote more about the issue here:

http://www.mazda6forums.co.uk/index.php?topic=3218.0
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Troubleshooting / Re: P0472 and p0471 fault codes
« Last Post by Sebforce1 on July 24, 2020, 03:15:52 pm »
I've managed to solve the issue on my car. My Mazda 6 was not accelerating correctly and it was showing the Engine Warning Light, DSC Light and SCBS Malfunction. My diagnostic reader was giving me the following codes:

P0471- Exhaust Pressure Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0472- Exhaust Pressure Sensor A Circuit Low
P2227- Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance

The P0471 & P2227 only showed up very intermittently whereas the P0472 was constant.

I replaced the dual-hose exhaust pressure sensor to no avail, but it turns out the Mazda 2.2D has two seperate exhaust pressure sensors which I was initially unaware of. The sensor is at the rear of the engine behind the valve cover, near the turbocharger. You need to remove the plastic engine cover and heat shield to get to it.

I contacted Mazda and ordered a new sensor however this model of sensor has been discontinued and replaced with a new design. The old sensor was covered in carbon deposit so i suspect it had just become blocked and could no longer register the pressure (my car has only done 34,000 miles!!). The new sensor comes included with a shorter rubber hose, mounting bracket and extender cable which all need to be installed for the new sensor to fit correctly. It's quite a fiddly job and you'll need a pair of long-nose pliers to get the hose spring clamps off but it's doable. Once installed, I reconnected the battery and cleared the Engine Warning Light and the car is now running and accelerating normally again!! :D

Part Numbers:
Old Sensor- SH02-18-211C
New Sensor- SHY6-18-W00

All in all, the new sensor cost around £69 and about 45 mins to install. My local Arnold Clark Mazda quoted me £128 just to run a diagnostic check so instead I just bought a £20 code reader from Amazon. Hopefully this can help someone save some cash and get their car back on the road.

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Vehicle Electrics / Fitted Nextbase 522
« Last Post by Pipnash60 on July 22, 2020, 04:52:46 pm »
Well I finally fitted the Nextbase 522 with rear camera to my 6. It was far more straight forward than I thought. Tips I picked up along the way.
Completely remove the passenger door rubber and take off the door strip, it's just a clip on so easy enough, remove the fuse box cover. Theres a small plastic screw at the very front top under the dash and easy to get to. I used the Nextbase hardwire kit and initially fitted it to the top fuse which is only on when ignition is switched on as advised. Great until you try to fit the fuse box back as the adapter for the fuse is too big. My 6 has low profile micro/mini fuses. I used the fuse below which, although was a lower amp, it worked fine as the dash cam only uses 2 amp fuses. Secondly flip the fuse adaptor so the wire is on the left, in other words upside down. If you don't the fuse box cover does not fit back on properly.
The obvious fitting the cables behind the air bags was a little tricky but I bought a set of plastic trim removal tools from ebay for £2.99 and they worked a treat.
The cable length in the kit is long, very long, so I used cable ties and looped the cable in 2 separate areas of each door on the drivers and rear passenger door to take up the excess. I added an extra couple of feritte block adaptors to reduce any potential interference. They were only a couple of quid so worth fitting just in case. I'll post some pics if anyone is interested. The cables are totally hidden. Self praise is no praise I know but I gave myself a pat on the back and saved the £100 the garage wanted to fit it. I used some alcohol wipes to clean the glass before fitting the front and rear cams. It's a great cam and has Alexa which is handy for getting quick traffic updates etc. With the amount of idiots and insurance scammers out there it seemed to be a wise investment. It also has a motion sensor which runs off the dash cams own battery so if someone tampers with or hits your car and drives off when parked you get them on cam. Uploads to your phone too if you download the app and also has cloud storage for sharing footage if it's ever needed.
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Will,

It’s definitely not that I’m afraid! 30mph in 3rd on a flat, level road at a constant speed isn’t putting the engine close to stalling. 
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Sounds to me like you are not using enough revs for the gear selected. It's sounds like the car is close to stalling.    If as you say it is ok after increasing the revs, then basically you are trying to use too high a  gear at such a low speed.   Change down, or as you have already found out, accelerate.
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