Author Topic: Discussions about DPF  (Read 109569 times)

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Offline old onions

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #15 on: December 19, 2011, 01:17:51 pm »
Gor131-x
Sinspeed are small outfit , less than a mile from where I live.
I visited there once to investigate DPF removal, but there was not really anyone there who could take me through the full procedure and implications.
I do know several users of the previous forum have had the dpf removed there without problems, and have been pleased with the results.
As far as I can ascertain, as well as removing the medium inside the filter itself , they fit an emulator to "fool" the ECU into thinking that the DPF is still functioning normally. Sinspeed told me that they would "guarantee" that the car would not fail the MoT test on emissions as a result of the DPF removal

Andy 

Offline mazda-campaign

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #16 on: December 29, 2011, 10:53:35 am »
Hey all, most of you may remember my posts on the old mazda6forum - i had an engine run-away in my 6 2.0d. Still fighting the case!

Anywho, i have personally been to sin-speed for an ABS issue on my VW, i was there for about 4 hours and must have see about 4 Mazda's pulling up requested they remove the DPF units, whilst i have not seen their work on the DPF's word has gone around that they can do a decent job.

Good to see the site up and running again.

Kind Regards,

Mehdi
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Offline PieEater

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #17 on: December 29, 2011, 06:06:14 pm »
Out of interest, how much would it cost to have the dpf removed?

Offline mazda-campaign

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #18 on: December 29, 2011, 08:15:02 pm »
well ive heard some people paid from £200 to £550, if thats something to go on i am happy i could help. lol
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Offline old onions

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #19 on: December 30, 2011, 09:56:37 am »
Sinspeed quoted me £650 for the full job.
Removal of DPF, and emptying the absorbant media, refitting the canister,  fitting the emulator, reprogramming the ecu and road testing.

That may seem expensive, but set against the cost of £2000 minimum for DPF replacement at a dealer it is a better option.

Andy

Offline mazda6

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #20 on: January 07, 2012, 02:33:05 pm »
The local garage & the dealer tried (but failed) to force regenerations and told me to replace the DPF £2500 So, i decided to get the DPF removed by www.remap24.co.uk in Halifax. Few weeks later  passed an MOT without any problems.

Offline MonkeySpanner

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #21 on: January 10, 2012, 03:04:57 pm »
My car is currently at the dealers for them to do a regen and relearn.  £150.  Just 2.5k shy of it's next service (87500 service)  DPF light started flashing last week but went off and stayed off all week.  Started flashing again so got it booked in.  Just for reference, 80% of my driving is motorways.

I would recomend that you get your EGR valve checked out as with that milage its more than likely stuck open and so you are not getting a propper regen even while doing motorway driving.
I've had a similar problem at the same milage and ended up having to replace the DPF with an aftermarket one for £300 from "cats & pipes". But after a lot of research I found the the root cause was the EGR valve was stuck open which caused it to get permenantly blocked.
The EGR valve is very easy to get at just below the inlet manifold and to remove, check and clean as takes about an hour to do.
I only wish I had checked it before it had gone too late and completely blocked the DPF :'(

The first item the Mazda Service training manual tells the dealers to check is if the EGR valve stuck when the DPF light comes on but even after the third time they had it in to do a regen they never bothered to check it & I had to find it myself.

Good luck ;)


Offline Rob

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #22 on: January 10, 2012, 07:52:07 pm »
monkeyspanner, did you clean out the EGR yourself?

Offline MonkeySpanner

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #23 on: January 10, 2012, 08:57:21 pm »
Hi Rob,
Yep it’s pretty straight forward. Remove some of the air hoses and then just 4x12mm bolts, as long as you have a good set of 6 sided sockets to get a good hold of the bolts on their flat edges.
Two from the EGR cooler and then the two mounting it on to the engine had to use a mirror to see the lower one.
Once you have it out the only tricky bit is removing the solenoid/motor as it held on with 4xPhilips screws which can slip if you don’t put it in a vice, but there's just enough room to get a grip on them with a good vice-grip if you do get stuck.
The valve stem can then be removed by compressing the spring to release the retaining clips. To clean it and the valve seat I used a dremmel with a wire brush attachment to do the cleaning.
Be careful though where the valve stem enters the main body of the valve as this uses a wire mesh as the seal and is awkward to clean(more a washing & rinsing process) plus you don't want to deform it or one of the wires in the mesh as they may obstruct the operation of the valve.
After this it was actuating as smooth as silk while and closing fully before I cleaned it I had to gently tap the valve out with a small hammer it was so sticky and you could still blow through it when closed. I dread to think how tight it was when the engine was up to temp.
I plan on taking it out again soon to see if there has been much build up and as its so easy to do I would check it at least once a year to help avoid DPF issues.

Cheers


Offline PieEater

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #24 on: January 14, 2012, 06:46:20 am »
I would recomend that you get your EGR valve checked out as with that milage its more than likely stuck open and so you are not getting a propper regen even while doing motorway driving.
I've had a similar problem at the same milage and ended up having to replace the DPF with an aftermarket one for £300 from "cats & pipes". But after a lot of research I found the the root cause was the EGR valve was stuck open which caused it to get permenantly blocked.
The EGR valve is very easy to get at just below the inlet manifold and to remove, check and clean as takes about an hour to do.
I only wish I had checked it before it had gone too late and completely blocked the DPF :'(

The first item the Mazda Service training manual tells the dealers to check is if the EGR valve stuck when the DPF light comes on but even after the third time they had it in to do a regen they never bothered to check it & I had to find it myself.

Good luck ;)

Thanks for the advice.  Out of interest, can I request this be done as part of a service?  Would a non Mazda garage know what an EGR valve is?

Offline MonkeySpanner

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #25 on: January 14, 2012, 02:37:56 pm »
Hi PieEater

As the EGR valve is not listed as a service item to check they will probably charge you the hourly rate to carry out this work for 2hrs worth of labour.
Any garage would be familiar with the EGR valve as they've been used all makes of cars for a long time so if you have one that you really trust then they should be able to do it no problems.
The only fear I would have with a main dealer is that they wouldn't bother spending the time trying to clean or recondition the valve if it were stuck as nowadays they just prefer to swap parts out and would then look to charge you for a new one which at a guess would be at least >$500 given that I heard that a recon kit can cost £250 for some cars yet I had no issues or need for any kit when I did it myself.
Personally I don't trust main dealer garages any more as they typically use apprentices to do the work and the last time I had a Mazda main dealer do my service I found that they hadn't even bothered to tighten the oil filter, as it was only finger tight and leaking oil so maybe I'm a bit biased. I now do the service myself and then just get the dealership to do the resets and re-cals.
One quick check you can do  though or get a local garage to do which will only take 15min at most is to remove the EGR connector pipe to the inlet manifold.
This is the aluminum covered/heatshielded pipe on the front right handside of the engine that is at an angle. If you remove this and find a lot of carbon build up on the inlet manifold port then theres a good chance that the EGR valve is not closing properly on mine this port was about 30-40% clogged with carbon. I would recommend though that you do not try to remove this carbon build up with out first removing the rubber pipe below feeding into the manifold as the carbon will end-up falling down into this and may get down into the intercooler by the time you get the rubber pipe off.
With this EGR pipe removed you will also be able to get a look at the stem or shaft of the EGR-Valve to see if there is any buildup or tarnish which is what causes the valve to get stuck.
With these two quick checks you'll have a good indication if you need to dig deeper and then decide if you want to take it to your main dealer.

Knowledge is Power :)

Offline Elwood

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #26 on: January 15, 2012, 01:48:41 pm »
This information about removing and cleaning the EGR valve is extremely interesting. I've been wanting to do this for a while now, but I don't seem to be able to find the EGR. Desciptions of its location lead me to a lump of metal with a black cap,of sorts,which is situated about midway down the front of the engine block,behind the fans and slightly right of centre. If this is the EGR, I can see no way of removing it as there are two nuts/bolts underneath. Access to these nuts/bolts is completely blocked by some sort of very stiff cabling or piping which is impossible to move.
Is there any possibilty that someone could post a photograph(s) of said EGR valve so that I can see if I'm looking in the right place?

Offline MonkeySpanner

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #27 on: January 16, 2012, 08:20:45 pm »
Hi Elwood

It sounds like you got the right one alright, I've just taken a photo of the EGR Valve which is attached. In doing so I spotted that there two more 14mm bolts which I had forgotten about.
I have also tried to highlight the bolts for the EGR Cooler with the yellow arrows which need be removed on the right hand side of the valve.
The cable you having trouble with is for the starter motor, if you don't have a swivel socket drive that lets you get around it you should be able to get enough freedom in the cable if you disconnect the top connector from the starter motor and remove the cable clip which is just visible in the bottom right corner of the picture. Naturally you should have your battery disconnected before starting this.
I have also attached a cross section schematic of the EGR Valve where I have highlighted the wire mesh seal that I mentioned to be careful of in a previous post.

[attachment deleted by admin]

Offline MonkeySpanner

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #28 on: January 16, 2012, 08:24:13 pm »
Doesent Seam to have got the photo here goes again

[attachment deleted by admin]

Offline Elwood

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Re: Discussions about DPF
« Reply #29 on: January 18, 2012, 03:50:22 pm »
Thanks a lot, MonkeySpanner, for the photo and schematic. Very useful and very helpful.