Author Topic: Air Con - Warm Air, Regassed...  (Read 9657 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline ad3y

  • S Class
  • *
  • Posts: 2
  • Colour: Aurora Blue (34J) Metallic
  • Engine: 2.0L
  • Fuel: Petrol
  • Transmission: Manual
  • Trim: TS2
  • Year: 2007
Air Con - Warm Air, Regassed...
« on: July 27, 2014, 01:54:38 pm »
Hi All,

I am getting warm air from my air con so I got the ezchill re-gas kit from Halfords.
I had 0 psi showing on the system so I figure theres a leak somewhere that I need to attend to.
However, what I hoped to do was to get the aircon going for now for taking the family away for a few days.
So I re-gassed - I got the low side pressure to 35psi before the Condensor clutch would engage but this is now spinning merrily away :)

So I have:-

 Low-side pressure of 35psi
 Condensor clutch engaged (so guessing condensor is running?)
 AirCon fan runs in engine bay

But with the aircon set to full power, 15 degrees then I am still getting warm air (well, I guess ambient temperature air) coming from the vents.

A trip to an aircon specialist at this point is out of the question so I just wondered if anyone on here might know a coupel of things:-

1) What is the correct Low Side pressure?
2) Have I missed something?

Cheers,
ad3y.

Offline Elwood

  • TS Class
  • **
  • Posts: 44
  • Gender: Male
  • Colour: Velocity Red (27A) Metallic
  • Engine: 2.0L
  • Fuel: Diesel
  • Transmission: Manual
  • Trim: TS
  • Year: 2007
Re: Air Con - Warm Air, Regassed...
« Reply #1 on: July 27, 2014, 07:17:13 pm »
Have you set the air circulation button to internal circulation? It's located  below the radio.

Offline ad3y

  • S Class
  • *
  • Posts: 2
  • Colour: Aurora Blue (34J) Metallic
  • Engine: 2.0L
  • Fuel: Petrol
  • Transmission: Manual
  • Trim: TS2
  • Year: 2007
Re: Air Con - Warm Air, Regassed...
« Reply #2 on: July 27, 2014, 08:05:10 pm »
Thx for the suggestion, I tried both recirculation and feeding from outside.
Didn't seem to make much difference (other than seeming to blow more powerfully when on recirculation).

It'll get a good run tomorrow, will see if it kicks into life during that (clutching. at. straws :D ).

Offline Dave467

  • S Class
  • *
  • Posts: 12
  • Gender: Male
  • Colour: Sunlight Silver (22V) Metallic
  • Engine: 2.0L
  • Fuel: Diesel
  • Transmission: Manual
  • Trim: Sport
  • Year: 2008
Re: Air Con - Warm Air, Regassed...
« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2014, 10:43:26 am »
Low pressure side will vary dependant on the ambient temperature, I am pretty sure that the low pressure side varies pressure quite a lot when the clutch kicks in and out.

Offline mareng73

  • Sport Class
  • ****
  • Posts: 164
  • Gender: Male
  • Colour: Blue Reflex Mica (42B)
  • Engine: 2.2L
  • Fuel: Diesel
  • Transmission: Manual
  • Trim: SE
  • Year: 2014
Re: Air Con - Warm Air, Regassed...
« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2019, 09:59:46 am »
Buy a dial thermometer and fit it in your centre vent, with the AC  running you should get a 15-17 temperature difference beteen it and the outside ambient  temp measured on the dash. If you are only in single figures then you are short of gas.


The only way to cure it is to take it to refrigation specialist ( often these chaps who work on commercial systems will do it as a guvvy outside of hours)  who will evac the system completely and pull a vacuum, leave it for a while with the valves shut off  to ascertain if there is a leak. Vaccing out also removes any moisture/ air in the system that can cause icing up inside and damage to the compressor.  If not then they will pass nitrogen through the system , vac that out then refill with new refrigrant  of the correct type for the system,  R134 A being one of many. They should add the gas by weight using a set of scale  on the gas bottle. Too much or too little is not going to work.
Most dealershops have a machine as the mechanics haven't a clue about refrigeration, so do it by numbers and lights on the machine.
This is why with the Mazda system it gives a series of tests they have to do, removing the need for the mechanic to think about fault finding and how a system works, just follow the numbers and the fault tree.
Previous Cars
Rover 45 TDI
Rover 400 DI
Nissan 200SX
TR7
TR Spitfire