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Mazda 6 / Re: What type and door mirrors
« Last Post by grumpyxch on November 27, 2023, 01:27:46 pm »
2 years ago when I bought the car, and it had a warranty that was still valid, the passenger door mirror stopped folding. The garage I go the car from honoured the warranty and fitted a new mirror. However, they did break the glass so replaced that too (under warranty).

I've put the car into a different garage to have the driver door mirror changed (the one I've been having problems with since early September), and that garage has broken two glasses. The car has got to stop there overnight until they get a third glass - will they fit that one without breaking it (rhetorical question)?

Is there a trick to fitting these glasses without breaking them? If so please tell me
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Mazda 6 / Re: What type and door mirrors
« Last Post by grumpyxch on October 15, 2023, 10:32:41 am »
Well the door mirror folding mechanism has become very unreliable. I have tried spraying in lubrication (usually silicon spray or WD40 around base). Haven't tried WD40 behind the mirror glass yet, but that seems to be a bit 'hit and miss' so I don't hold out much hope.

Any idea how much it would cost to change the mirror assembly - to buy a new assembly then get my local garage to do the change? I've tried getting one off eBay, but they all seem to have the wrong type of built-in indicator (the rectangular one on the end, whereas mine is a thin strip that wraps round the mirror body).

Thanks for any help
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Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / stalling
« Last Post by Leew on October 10, 2023, 07:04:24 pm »
My 2009 Mazda 6 sport keeps stalling at junctions.OBD reader says faulty vehicle speed sensor.Would this cause stalling tho,are these issues connected?
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Mazda 6 / What type and door mirrors
« Last Post by grumpyxch on September 02, 2023, 12:39:56 pm »
I've got a Mazda 6 that was registered in March 2017, so it could be a GJ or a GL - how do I find out which?

Also. my drivers door mirror fold-in mechanism has become very intermittent, though it is worse on warm days. I bought a replacement on eBay, but when it arrived the built-in indicator was different. On the replacement it was just a rectangle on the the outside edge of the mirror, whereas on the car the indicator is a thin strip that goes from that edge round to the front of the mirror body. The sellers photo only showed the view of the mirror that the driver would see, so this wasn't obvious. How do I ensure that I am buying the correct version of the mirror? Is there a spec or model I can quote that would help avoid a repeat of the wrong type? Incidentally, the wrong'un has been sent back.

Thanks for any help
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Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / Re: ECT location on the SkyActiv D 2.2
« Last Post by mareng73 on August 26, 2023, 06:37:28 pm »
Either pm me your email address as the file is too large for the system  or pop into your Mazda parts dept and ask for athe diagram of sensors and the parts list with prices.
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Could not edit and add, so have to start a new post.
What sort of rapport do you have with your service manager, ( not the flunky at the reception desk),  do you trust him to give you an honest answer bearing in mind he can earn £1000  for the dealership.
As you seem to want to keep the car as it is running well and probably looks good body wise is it worth treating it to a £1000  chain to keep it running.  Granted the resale value cannot be a lot, but the car means a bit to you  and there is not much out there these days to choose from if you buy another of any model.

As chain stretch can be measured as opposed to belts changed on mileage it would seem you are on borrowed time with that amount of stretch. It could be a case of a 'stitch in time save nine'.
 
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Google chain stretch for that model. I think I read about 10° also.
Your car may be serviced but they only do whats on their list (if you are lucky) and checking the timing chain stretch is not one of the items, though given the history of chains on  sub 2013 models then it doesn't take much to check if they have their laptop plugged in to reset your oil counter when the engine  is up to temperature.
I normally have that PID saved along with Fuel Dilution, Number of Regens, Battery SOC as when I go for fuel take those readings  with mileage, and the dash mpg and log it in my ruled notebook as the car is usually up to temp at that point.

What you have to decide is if the chain snaps what is the cost of damage (new engine) or have it changed before damage is done.
There has been many cases of timing  belts and recent chains (after it was decided to change back but to fit necklaces rather than a decent heavy duty chain)  letting fly and bent valves, holes in pistons ensuing from the wreckage. The engine may still run ok but whats the longevity of the chain. You pays your money, you takes your chance. 

My brother has just changed the chain on a 1932 Daimler 15 (hp),  it was a double widith chain and they used the dynamo to tension it. There was no more adjustment on the dynamo. When the timing was checked it was way out but I assume the engine still ran at some point. He managed toget 30 psig oil pressure turning it over on the starter motor and compression pressures 50-100  psig, so a runner. He just has to make sure the  block is sound and no cracks on the water side.
Engines may run with a stretched chain, but how efficient, clean and does it start easily.
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I assume you mean the fuel filter was replaced when they had the battery out. You said oil
 filter which is accessible from underneath the car.
Why would the charge £900  to change a fuel filter, you could have done it yourself  in an hour. Just Googling the filter we are talking about £30.
I think you need to change your garage.
I am also surprised that the AA didn't notice the loose battery terminal.
Sounds like you have been taken for a ride.  These service advisors should not 2nd guess a mechanics findings, just report what the symptoms you tell him, otherwise it leads the mechanic down the wrong path.
There is no excuse for levels of oils, water and fuel and tyre pressures to be the cause of a problem, these are  things that should be checked monthly or if you are a high mileage driver weekly. If you are going on a longer journey than your normal commute then check the car over the day before. Air filter and cabin filter can be checked monthly also, niether takes more than a few minutes and no tools are required. Low pressure or uneven tyre pressures can lead to changes in handling and heavier wear on tyres. Buy a tyre pressure gauge and check them before driving the car when they are cold. Use the air compressor supplied with the car if requiring more air. I run mine at 35 psig and 38 psig if going on long distance runs. If fully loaded you can go up to 40 -44 psig , but check the plate. Also check the pressure in your spare or doughnut.
Its an offence to drive with an empty windscreen washer bottle, if you cannot see the water level then top it up and carry some water in the boot. Don't bother with the plastic dipstic in the cap. Make sure the sprayers work. These jobs are not garage service items but Owners responsibility.
READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL
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Vehicle Electrics / Re: 2A drain - brand new battery keeps going flat
« Last Post by zippy_6 on August 05, 2023, 01:36:58 pm »
Sorry, should have said, it's a 2013 Mazda 6 2.2 SE-L Nav Manual Diesel with Start/Stop
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Vehicle Electrics / 2A drain - brand new battery keeps going flat
« Last Post by zippy_6 on August 05, 2023, 01:29:13 pm »
Problem as above: battery fails to hold charge.

The timeline is:

  • dash indicator started to flash low key battery
  • some weeks later (yeah  ???) changed the battery of the key fob, which is when it started to kick off
  • couple of days after changing the battery, went to get in the car and couldn't unlock, couldn't start the car after manually unlocking it
  • called out the RAC - patrol diagnosed a flat battery (alternator fine), charged it up and then was left running for a good hour if not more
  • next day, battery flat again, called out RAC again and patrol recommended changing the entire battery with an EFB Varta battery
  • following day, same story - flat battery! This time, the patrol found a steady drain of 2A on the battery, but obviously he wasn't going to hang around finding the source of the drain; instead, he recommended calling out an auto diagnostic company rather than going to Mazda (generalists)
  • called out https://airbagman.co.uk/ who failed to find a fault but sent another colleague to look at it who couldn't find anything either and recommended yet another auto electrician

At this point, I've given up and booked the car in with Mazda, but it feels like a needle in a haystack problem so I'm posting here to see if anyone else has experienced a similar issue.
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