Author Topic: Old Mazda 6 issues/notes (2011/2012)  (Read 10667 times)

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Offline jimjamjihah

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  • Year: 2011
Old Mazda 6 issues/notes (2011/2012)
« on: May 15, 2021, 09:03:30 am »
Hi, just wanted to note some things I’ve learned since having a Mazda 6 – 2011 2.2 163BHP diesel estate (GH / GHA). We’ve been very happy with it and bought another but they’re both older and older cars have their issues. I’ve been reading the forum a lot and found it useful but thought my notes might be of use to someone else.

First bought it, brake pad locked to disc –  calipers/pads/discs replaced under warranty from the place we bought it.

No issues since with brakes – replaced pads and tyres.

Air con wasn’t working and there was a recall for the boot support so took it to Mazda Warrington

They said multiple parts not working,  £1300 for a whole new air con system, suggested buying a new car and did the recall repair.
Happened to take to Halfords for Service/Mot, paid an extra £40 speculatively for air con diagnostics. They regased  (£40 total cost) and it’s still working 2 years later. They said it didn’t need much topping up but once it was topped up it worked again. Felt a bit reluctant to take it back to dealer after this.

Then DPF light came on – assumed this was DPF and tried the frustrating regeneration using the technique below
https://chiptuning.com.au/2013/04/30/procedure-for-emergency-dpf-regen-on-mazda-6-2-0d-mzr-cd-2007-09/
Found this very frustrating and quickly bought a OBD tool that has the MS-CAN/HS-CAN switch and used forscan on a laptop to do regen. Paid about £25 for this and it gives you
•   Coolant temperature and other monitoring
•   Feedback on why DPF regen hasn’t run / failed
•   Information on the fault that’s causing the DPF issue

Eventually got fed up of this happening and got a replacement DPF for £441 through clickmechanic
But the dpf light kept on coming on, sometimes going into limp home mode
Turns out there was another heated oxygen sensor fault and that’s why the DPF regen wasn’t running. The sensor I think is under the car but ideally needs to be up on the ramps / with the skirt off and I decided it was too much hassle to replace myself.
Tried getting this replaced with clickmechanic but it came back. Tried to get it done with Mazda Warrington – significant delay and communication issues but they did fix it for a reasonable price.

Once this was sorted DPF light stays off – looks like it doesn’t always run the DPF regen when there’s an engine fault present.
Maybe a year later engine lights come on with a EGR valve fault like it’s stuck open, performance not as good (not quite as bad as limp home mode).
Read about it online, wondered, tried to get a workshop manual but can’t get one for the GHA 2008-2012 version, only the American (not European) version or the previous version pre 2007. No Haynes manual available either.
Anyway, took the engine cover off with 12 mm sockets. Behind the radiator is the EGR valve. Removed the piping (10mm sockets) and it’s all tarred up, cleaned it a bit and the faults gone and it’s driving better. If it comes back might try EGR cleaner either through the intake or removing it. Replacement valve isn’t cheap / easy as the coolant goes through it meaning draining the radiator also.

Bought another one with the DPF light on for a low price thinking it was something I now knew how to sort. Again, wasn’t actually the DPF but a Crank sensor misposition warning. Tried replacing the crank sensor, couldn’t find the right one in stock from General Traffic. Tried one of the websites registered in Germany with similar names – but it was the wrong part and took ages to come. Got it from Mazda Bolton (who got part in v fast no issue). Fitted it – it’s just inside the driver side wheel arch, wheel off, cover back and you can just about get at it. No luck, there’s a diagnostic function on forscan that says it was still 14 degrees out of sync suggesting it would need a new drive chain. Took it to Oakmere Mazda who were very efficient and confirmed this fault and quoted £1250. Thought about it, got a quote for £700 elsewhere but they then changed it and a local garage did it for about £1250. The kit is about £400, but it’s a lot of time and they needed some extra parts.

All working again

Minor issues – windscreen washer spray unusably weak. Thought this was the washer pump – again just inside the wheel arch. Again difficult to get part – Mazda only, but it was actually the nozzles which are much easier to replace (and cheaper). Should have checked this first!

So left me with the reflections
•   Sometimes it’s easier just to take it to main dealer, but might be worth taking it to one a bit further away if there’s issues.
•   Despite these issues it’s been a great car for the price
o   It’s always been drivable even in limp-home mode – computer seems to warn in advance of fault (but it won’t pass MOT with the warning light on)
o   It’s got a great boot space, folding seats easy to use
o   Towed caravan with it no issues

I wonder about upgrading the speakers – anyone done this?

Offline Grenache

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Re: Old Mazda 6 issues/notes (2011/2012)
« Reply #1 on: August 17, 2021, 11:25:37 pm »
Hello,

Sounds like you've had more than your fair share of problems, I have a 2012 hatchback with the same engine, which I bought new but now has 162,000 miles on it but never had a day's bother or any breakdowns.  I've had to replace wheel bearings and other parts which are wear and tear, of course.

Only big gripe I have is about rust - the car was rusty when new and although the dealer re-treated the subframe parts, it still looks a lot older underneath than its real age.

My previous car was an identical one but 4 years older, but the build quality of the current car is really shoddy by comparison.

Only saving grace is that it's reasonably economical to run and comfortable to drive.