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Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / Re: Turbo stopped working?
« Last Post by Darren1717 on June 23, 2018, 08:39:20 am »
Sorry, I've not had a look at all your codes to interpret them yet.

Did you unbolt and clean that EGR thoroughly?  Sometimes, you'll also see a huge amount of carbon build up on the inlet manifold.  Clean what you can there too with a carb cleaner and a toothbrush.

Now you have the repair manual, locate and clean both your MAP and MAF sensors.   It would be interesting to see whether dirty sensors are creating a downstream problem with restriction in power.  They do on so many other cars.

Thanks...

I haven’t managed to get the manual yet, as I’m on an iPad and need IE! I’ll have to do it at work, to get to the EGR etc!
For the above reason, I’ve not yet got it off to clean, but sounds like the next job. I have put a new MAF sensor on... will find and clean MAP sensor.

Cheers

2
Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / Re: Turbo stopped working?
« Last Post by Darren1717 on June 23, 2018, 08:36:03 am »
Googling the codes, you start with coolant temperature, pass on intake air sensors and completes with DPF efficiency.

Somebody else was posting the same problems, called the dealer and said something about the sensors.

If you could locate the sensors, you could clean them up. The sensors will cost to replace them so maybe some confirmation from an expert before trying by luck, could save you money.


Thanks apav
3
Mazda 6 / Re: New Mazda 6 Petrol 2.5Turbo
« Last Post by apav on June 23, 2018, 06:42:00 am »
Enter the number plate of a used car to a parts shop. Try a diesel Insignia or a F10.

I am not saying that the quantity is related to the quality of the oil. But small quantities cannot do the mileage.

It has nothing for the effort they made. It was all about how to develop a product and make good monies.

Mazda never did such a chain recall. That is all I am saying, not that this cannot happen. It is just that they covered it up with a DPF light and put all the responsibility to the driver.

The patch for the chain was to link the chain problem to the DPF light. They could read it the stretch but once they realised that it is a problem, they linked that to the DPF light.
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So here's the boot section done.  I didn't get time to take it for a spin and see how much of a difference its made yet, that'll be done at some point on Saturday.

I was very surprised to hear how the wheel well sounded like a steel drum, with its shrill high notes when I tapped around the sides of the sunken well and around the surrounding surface.

I made a video of the "before and after", and the sound is now dulled down with much less resonance.  This should make for an improvement by reducing the vibration and noise from the rear wheels, road surface and twin exhausts.

I've now only got one sheet of Silent coat left.  I'll need 10 - 12 more sheets to get address all four doors.

As with the cabin, there's plenty of room for closed cell foam to do its trick.  The existing limited 10mm of wadding is just inadequate.
 
You can find my write up here: https://ibb.co/album/du5Rka




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You'll find that Xtrons, Eonon and Joyride and many other Chinese based resellers are in fact selling the same product.

I've seen some of the older Eonon and Xtrons units first hand and their FM/MW receivers are pretty good.

Like with all things to do with radio reception, you are going to be restricted to the quality of your own aerial.  I've had a chance to fit and compare different aerials over the last 25+ years of owning and working on cars, and sometimes you just need to install a higher quality powered roof mounted aerial (not passive).  In the past I've mostly used Blaupunkt aerials.

My GH estate employs an integrated window aerial in the rear estate quarter window.  It's basic and not very good with FM or MW broadcasts.  However, I prefer DAB on my Pioneer F70DAB and I used a simple stick on Blaupunkt powered window aerial as I had it lying around.  Most of the places I've been to across the UK have pretty good DAB reception so I'm not going to put a roof mounted one on.  I admit, I have noticed one or two flat spots along the M1 and A1, but losing reception for 3 seconds as I whizz by isn't the end of the earth for me.

I have thought about fitting a shark fin type too, but a lot of these units just look nice and have underwhelming performance.  If I every get more time to assess them, I'd buy a bunch and do it to avoid being caught out by the vast number of fake reviews or subjective reviews I see online.

I'm likely to sell my Pioneer unit as I have a Bose amp setup in mine already that will compensate and improve upon what the Xtrons unit can output.  I'd prefer to have an Android unit now the quality, performance and 8.0 user interface is better for my needs.  I'm considering this unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SeL3MTCl7ck


I'm watching this on eBay to give me a guide as to how much I might get:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pioneer-AVIC-F70DAB-High-end-navi-AppleCarPlay-Android-Auto-Bluetooth-DAB/173371122575?hash=item285db9638f:g:jcQAAOSw~BhbKCy8
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Mazda 6 / Re: New Mazda 6 Petrol 2.5Turbo
« Last Post by aeroadster on June 22, 2018, 11:03:15 am »
I'm not sure where you get your information from, but my wife's Fiat Multipla 1.9JTD requires 4.2 litres - similar to the Mazda 6.  Like I say, I do know this as I've serviced our Multiplas for 9 years.

My old BMW 5 series 520 company car used 4.25 litres.

The only time you get close to double this is if you own a 2.5, 3.0 3.5, 4.0, 4.5 or 5.0 litre BMW which uses between 6.2 - 8 litres.

Please don't make assumptions that the volume of oil a manufacturer designs its engines to use is indicative of how bad the engine is or how likely it is to suffer from problems.  Until you've spent years in engine design you may not appreciate the effort and testing that has taken place before engines are launched.  Every modern engine since undergoes a significant degree of performance and stress testing under conditions that exceed real life conditions.  However, we have to except that in some cases things go wrong.

Take a look at this BMW blog topic, where premature chain stretch occurs on some of their bigger engines like the ones I pointed out above that have more oil in the engine.
http://www.bmwblog.com/2015/10/28/bmw-to-replace-faulty-timing-chain-in-2008-2014-vehicles/

There are cases where some of these cars are having problems in years 1 and 2 of ownership with low mileage, and like Mazda there's an ongoing programme of monitoring that they employ.

BTW.  Mazda did not install a patch into every car.  They are simply monitoring chain stretch by assessing the camshaft and crankshaft differential positions, which already exist as Mazda (like many manufacturers) employ crankshaft and camshaft sensors as a means of constantly monitoring the health of the car.  They are using the monitored readings to evaluate and calculate chain stretch and they use a relative index to indicate how close the stretch is getting towards the fringes of acceptable safety.  IIRC the threshold they look for is 10.5 under certain operating conditions.

Most buyers won't do any research into the common issues associated with the cars that interest them because its down right geeky and boring. Many people buy cars for their practicality, price, looks, the badge, perceived running costs, or based on someone else recommendation - not on the engineering quality, list of recalls, and common issues.  So it's no surprise they are upset when things go wrong.  For a lot of people, the car is the second biggest purchase they will make after a home and no manufacturer or dealer will give you a list of problems to consider before you part with your cash.  The bottom line is - do your own research, talk to experts, assess the risks and likelihood that you will encounter one of the common or rare problems, and make sure you budget for it. 
7
Mazda 6 / Re: New Mazda 6 Petrol 2.5Turbo
« Last Post by apav on June 22, 2018, 07:45:56 am »
I know what you mean but Mazda installed a patch to every car to monitor the chain stretch. So every car must get faulty. I have the belt version and I felt that I am losing out on belt changes but then it turns out that the chain changes at similar intervals, so it is very similar job. I think there is no chain car without the chain replaced at least once. So if you get one without the chain done, I think you will have to do it. It is not a huge cost but it is a hidden cost that you do not expect to pay. Yes you do the injectors seals to all cars but it is only in Mazdas that caused such a huge problem with the oil circulation.

The frequent oil changes could do the trick and mask the problem. It is not perfect but then removing and checking components like the injectors and sump every so often, is not healthy as well. Somebody was saying that even the frequent oil changes add up stress to the sump bolt area. The current typical service interval of 10-12K miles is about right with the modern oils. Cars that do more mileage between services, tend to have more oil capacity. You can check the online shops for the FIAT engines in Insignias for example, or the 5 series of BMW, all of them are 2.0 engines and they all need a 7L oil for the change. The Insignia comes with 20K miles interval and the 5 with 36K miles. That makes me think that the 12.5K of the 6 should be doable with no problems at all. Mine goes off about 13.5K miles because I drive it very gently but still I have this question in the back of mind of what is building up in there. Somebody has a video online with 10K changes and it was fully blocked at 150K miles. Toyota goes for 10K miles changes. I do not know, maybe 5K-6K miles between changes is the way forward.
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Steering/Suspension/Brakes / Re: handbrake adjustment?
« Last Post by aeroadster on June 22, 2018, 01:00:15 am »
All done.

I fitted the new rear handbrake cable set today and everything is back to normal.  There are no issues with the caliper, as per my initial diagnosis.

Incidentally, the aftermarket set of cables were well made with the exception of one thing.  The pair of cylindrical lugs at the end of the cable were the wrong size and shape and didn't fit into my front handbrake cable's holder.

I had to grind off the excess metal in order for them to fit.

For future reference, in the event you need to change your handbrake cable on a GH model, you need to remove the near side under-tray that is located between the wheelbase of the car, but you only need to remove the bolts from the rear half of the off-side under-tray to get sufficient access.

If you have access to the Workshop manual it is easy, and my helpful tips for re-assembly are:
1. Unhook the release/rebound spring and re-attach this only after the cables are installed, the front and rear handbrake cables have been mated, hooked up and the adjustment nut is re-attached to the threaded screw.
2. Undo and remove the adjuster nut from the front handbrake assembly, and proceed to push the threaded bolt halfway down (1 inch) into the ratchet mechanism using a small screw driver.  This will give you more cable to play with and simplifies the reinstatement process, where you need to connect the front cable to the rears beneath your arm-rest.
3. Once the handbrake cable lug is hooked into place behind the caliper, remove the screwdriver that was gently holding that threaded adjustment screw down, then wiggle the handbrake up and down and pull the cable back towards the handbrake lever.  This encourages the threaded screw to resurface so you can attach the adjustment nut to the end,
4. My new adjustment nut sweet spot position is now 1cm from the top of the threaded screw  - instead of at the bottom some 4cm away.
5. Don't forget to clean the grime off all of the handbrake cable contact surfaces behind each caliper with Plusgas or something similar.
6. Remember to re-locate the release/rebound spring before refitting your wheel

I performed tests when adjusting the handbrake adjustment nut to make sure that the 6th click of the ratchet would fully lock the rear wheels.  Once the new cable is bedded in (one week should do), I'll adjust it again to make that the 5th click.
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Mazda 6 / Re: New Mazda 6 Petrol 2.5Turbo
« Last Post by aeroadster on June 22, 2018, 12:19:51 am »
My concern with many forums is that a few examples of an issue seems to influence everyone into believing everyone is having the same problem at the same extreme level as those who have had a chain snap.  The lack of statistical or empirical information worries me as we seem to live in a world of misinformation going viral, like the first cute cat on YouTube.

As an engineer, I have seen first hand timing chain stretch on Mercedes, BMW, and Saab cars long before I came across this issue with Mazda cars, and in the case of BMW & Mercedes they were far higher frequencies than I've come across on Mazdas.  In recent years I've seen VW, Audi, Ford and Alfa Romeo engines suffer from the same issue from 20k miles+, but this doesn't mean that their cars should be 100% avoided.

Chain stretch is inevitable, and this is the reason why I take my car into Mazda each year, as they track the chain stretch/deviation for me and they are more likely to offer a better price for replacing the chain once I've haggled with them, as they cannot use an excuse for a non-Mazda garage using the wrong parts or oils.

I'm sure that if Mazda had genuinely tried to cover this up every dealer would have towed the party line.  I've not come across a Mazda dealer who denies the chain stretch issue, but then again I have only dealt with Mazda dealers in Derby, Leicester and Watford.

Your understanding of leaking injectors seems somewhat speculative and imprecise.  There's many reasons as to why an injector may leak and the leak may be occurring at the nozzle or the seat.  If you are low on oil and a downstream problem happens, then that's your fault for not checking your oil level or consulting a garage or dealer - don't blame Mazda.  In some cases, oil rail pressure could be the fault but you'd need to diagnose the root cause of the problem as there could be other reasons.

You are also incorrect about the oil volumes in BMWs.  BMW do not put double the quantity of oil in their engines in comparison to Mazda.  I have worked on a variety of BMWs since the 90s and I would know how if they were using twice as much as Mazda.  If you've never worked on a BMW, and if you don't believe me Google it, or phone a BMW dealer's service team.

Like I said in my previous post, almost every car engine based on DI technology is likely to suffer from the problems I described to varying degrees.  Also irrespective of what engine you have, you will always encounter a degree of engine wear.   The purpose of the oil is keep fine metal particles and carbon suspended whilst coating the internal engine surfaces with a protective layer that minimises friction.  Your driving style will influence how often you should change your oil, but if you're concerned and you don't trust your dealer or garage just change it every 5-6000 miles and make sure you're using the correct type/grade.
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Which did you go for in the end.  I am just about to buy a 2nd Gen Sport (if I can find one) and want to do a similar update to the stereo.

I have read some opinons about the radio being poor in some of these chinese andriod head units so its somthing to check on first- I just want FM radio, sat nav and usb media playback while retaining the steering wheel controls of course.

I have also seen some mention on xtrons but little to recommend one brand over the other.

Cheers
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