Some advice to others:

mazda6 ts2 2.0 petrol.  Dec 2023 Cold temp.

Battrey dying slow cranking RAC confirms battery weak, swopped out after 7 years of use (pretty good).

Battrey pulled out of car at 1pm, replaced at 2pm all was well. did not drive it as WFH.

Its cold and traffic was busy where o love, so opted to leave the car outside house and just start the engine for 20 mins, al good.

Sat morn, 0c  start the car all ok, warm up and drive off to test it,  notice idle was not riht, during my drive teh car cut out 3 timnes when slowing down or stopping, this happanned in first 25 mins. Proceeded to drive home , all ok.   

Googled the issue , found its likely car was relearning from ecu that caused this plus the cold temp did not help.   All ok now.

I did not have this problem when i last replaced the battery in summer 2016.

2 years ago when I bought the car, and it had a warranty that was still valid, the passenger door mirror stopped folding. The garage I go the car from honoured the warranty and fitted a new mirror. However, they did break the glass so replaced that too (under warranty).

I've put the car into a different garage to have the driver door mirror changed (the one I've been having problems with since early September), and that garage has broken two glasses. The car has got to stop there overnight until they get a third glass - will they fit that one without breaking it (rhetorical question)?

Is there a trick to fitting these glasses without breaking them? If so please tell me

My 2009 Mazda 6 sport keeps stalling at junctions.OBD reader says faulty vehicle speed sensor.Would this cause stalling tho,are these issues connected?

Either pm me your email address as the file is too large for the system  or pop into your Mazda parts dept and ask for athe diagram of sensors and the parts list with prices.

Google chain stretch for that model. I think I read about 10° also.
Your car may be serviced but they only do whats on their list (if you are lucky) and checking the timing chain stretch is not one of the items, though given the history of chains on  sub 2013 models then it doesn't take much to check if they have their laptop plugged in to reset your oil counter when the engine  is up to temperature.
I normally have that PID saved along with Fuel Dilution, Number of Regens, Battery SOC as when I go for fuel take those readings  with mileage, and the dash mpg and log it in my ruled notebook as the car is usually up to temp at that point.

What you have to decide is if the chain snaps what is the cost of damage (new engine) or have it changed before damage is done.
There has been many cases of timing  belts and recent chains (after it was decided to change back but to fit necklaces rather than a decent heavy duty chain)  letting fly and bent valves, holes in pistons ensuing from the wreckage. The engine may still run ok but whats the longevity of the chain. You pays your money, you takes your chance. 

My brother has just changed the chain on a 1932 Daimler 15 (hp),  it was a double widith chain and they used the dynamo to tension it. There was no more adjustment on the dynamo. When the timing was checked it was way out but I assume the engine still ran at some point. He managed toget 30 psig oil pressure turning it over on the starter motor and compression pressures 50-100  psig, so a runner. He just has to make sure the  block is sound and no cracks on the water side.
Engines may run with a stretched chain, but how efficient, clean and does it start easily.