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Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / Transmission whirring / whining noise
« Last Post by andrec81 on December 05, 2023, 10:53:47 am »
I have a 2017 manual petrol model, 56,000 miles. I've noticed a whining/whirring (I think someone compared it to an electric pencil sharpener noise on another forum) sort of noise whenever the car is moving, increasing in pitch as the revs go up in each gear. If I am stationary and press the clutch in, the noise goes away but starts again as soon as I release the clutch, even in neutral. Interestingly the noise does not go away if I put the clutch in whilst freewheeling. I can't remember if it suddenly started or has always been there but is merely getting louder - bought the car second hand. Any ideas before I go for an expensive diagnostic? Thanks.
Vehicle Electrics / Battery Dying
« Last Post by Londoner1 on December 05, 2023, 09:30:07 am »
Some advice to others:

mazda6 ts2 2.0 petrol.  Dec 2023 Cold temp.

Battrey dying slow cranking RAC confirms battery weak, swopped out after 7 years of use (pretty good).

Battrey pulled out of car at 1pm, replaced at 2pm all was well. did not drive it as WFH.

Its cold and traffic was busy where o love, so opted to leave the car outside house and just start the engine for 20 mins, al good.

Sat morn, 0c  start the car all ok, warm up and drive off to test it,  notice idle was not riht, during my drive teh car cut out 3 timnes when slowing down or stopping, this happanned in first 25 mins. Proceeded to drive home , all ok.   

Googled the issue , found its likely car was relearning from ecu that caused this plus the cold temp did not help.   All ok now.

I did not have this problem when i last replaced the battery in summer 2016.

Mazda 6 / Re: What type and door mirrors
« Last Post by grumpyxch on November 28, 2023, 01:52:48 pm »
I've got my car back, with the new mirror unit.

The answer to fitting the glass without breaking it is to heat it up 'quite hot' (garage mechanic's words), then fit it. There are 3 ball-and-socket joints on the back of the glass, a main one for supporting the glass, a small one for horizontal adjustment, and a small one for vertical adjustment. It was the latter one that broke if the mirror wasn't heated first.
Mazda 6 / Re: What type and door mirrors
« Last Post by grumpyxch on November 27, 2023, 01:27:46 pm »
2 years ago when I bought the car, and it had a warranty that was still valid, the passenger door mirror stopped folding. The garage I go the car from honoured the warranty and fitted a new mirror. However, they did break the glass so replaced that too (under warranty).

I've put the car into a different garage to have the driver door mirror changed (the one I've been having problems with since early September), and that garage has broken two glasses. The car has got to stop there overnight until they get a third glass - will they fit that one without breaking it (rhetorical question)?

Is there a trick to fitting these glasses without breaking them? If so please tell me
Mazda 6 / Re: What type and door mirrors
« Last Post by grumpyxch on October 15, 2023, 10:32:41 am »
Well the door mirror folding mechanism has become very unreliable. I have tried spraying in lubrication (usually silicon spray or WD40 around base). Haven't tried WD40 behind the mirror glass yet, but that seems to be a bit 'hit and miss' so I don't hold out much hope.

Any idea how much it would cost to change the mirror assembly - to buy a new assembly then get my local garage to do the change? I've tried getting one off eBay, but they all seem to have the wrong type of built-in indicator (the rectangular one on the end, whereas mine is a thin strip that wraps round the mirror body).

Thanks for any help
Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / stalling
« Last Post by Leew on October 10, 2023, 07:04:24 pm »
My 2009 Mazda 6 sport keeps stalling at junctions.OBD reader says faulty vehicle speed sensor.Would this cause stalling tho,are these issues connected?
Mazda 6 / What type and door mirrors
« Last Post by grumpyxch on September 02, 2023, 12:39:56 pm »
I've got a Mazda 6 that was registered in March 2017, so it could be a GJ or a GL - how do I find out which?

Also. my drivers door mirror fold-in mechanism has become very intermittent, though it is worse on warm days. I bought a replacement on eBay, but when it arrived the built-in indicator was different. On the replacement it was just a rectangle on the the outside edge of the mirror, whereas on the car the indicator is a thin strip that goes from that edge round to the front of the mirror body. The sellers photo only showed the view of the mirror that the driver would see, so this wasn't obvious. How do I ensure that I am buying the correct version of the mirror? Is there a spec or model I can quote that would help avoid a repeat of the wrong type? Incidentally, the wrong'un has been sent back.

Thanks for any help
Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / Re: ECT location on the SkyActiv D 2.2
« Last Post by mareng73 on August 26, 2023, 06:37:28 pm »
Either pm me your email address as the file is too large for the system  or pop into your Mazda parts dept and ask for athe diagram of sensors and the parts list with prices.
Could not edit and add, so have to start a new post.
What sort of rapport do you have with your service manager, ( not the flunky at the reception desk),  do you trust him to give you an honest answer bearing in mind he can earn £1000  for the dealership.
As you seem to want to keep the car as it is running well and probably looks good body wise is it worth treating it to a £1000  chain to keep it running.  Granted the resale value cannot be a lot, but the car means a bit to you  and there is not much out there these days to choose from if you buy another of any model.

As chain stretch can be measured as opposed to belts changed on mileage it would seem you are on borrowed time with that amount of stretch. It could be a case of a 'stitch in time save nine'.
Google chain stretch for that model. I think I read about 10° also.
Your car may be serviced but they only do whats on their list (if you are lucky) and checking the timing chain stretch is not one of the items, though given the history of chains on  sub 2013 models then it doesn't take much to check if they have their laptop plugged in to reset your oil counter when the engine  is up to temperature.
I normally have that PID saved along with Fuel Dilution, Number of Regens, Battery SOC as when I go for fuel take those readings  with mileage, and the dash mpg and log it in my ruled notebook as the car is usually up to temp at that point.

What you have to decide is if the chain snaps what is the cost of damage (new engine) or have it changed before damage is done.
There has been many cases of timing  belts and recent chains (after it was decided to change back but to fit necklaces rather than a decent heavy duty chain)  letting fly and bent valves, holes in pistons ensuing from the wreckage. The engine may still run ok but whats the longevity of the chain. You pays your money, you takes your chance. 

My brother has just changed the chain on a 1932 Daimler 15 (hp),  it was a double widith chain and they used the dynamo to tension it. There was no more adjustment on the dynamo. When the timing was checked it was way out but I assume the engine still ran at some point. He managed toget 30 psig oil pressure turning it over on the starter motor and compression pressures 50-100  psig, so a runner. He just has to make sure the  block is sound and no cracks on the water side.
Engines may run with a stretched chain, but how efficient, clean and does it start easily.
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